River Stone adapts its wine styles

Photo: River Stone's adaptable Ted Kane

The current wine releases from River Stone Estate Winery testify to the resilience of Ted Kane, the co-owner, viticulturist and winemaker. He has had to rise to the challenges of the difficult vintages of 2021 and 2023; and he is coping with another difficult year.

The new releases include a red table wine from 2021. That was the year of extreme heat during the growing season. “This extreme heat shut the plants down and effectively delayed ripening,” he writes. The heat “affected our grape set and ultimately harvest volumes which were lower than historical average yields.” However, “the quality at harvest was exceptional.”

The volumes from the 2023 vintage were also well below average because of the freeze the vineyards experienced in December, 2022. “While our vines certainly proved eager to take part in the 2023 vintage,” Ted writes, “the secondary fruit was not suited to the premium red portfolio that I have spent over 20 years building.” Ever flexible, Ted adapted his 2023 wines to the styles the fruit made possible. “Our 2023 portfolio represents the lighter incarnations of their red counterparts: zesty sparklers, aromatic whites and mouthwatering rosés have taken the spotlight this year,” he says.

The current vintage is sure to be even more challenging. Ted laid out the issues earlier this year in a report to the River Stone wine club:

The reality is the wine industry has taken another significant hit with the exceptional, and untimely cold weather snap occurring between January 11th and 14th. You probably have heard me say, as I firmly believe, “Mother Nature Runs the Show”. And we must adjust our practices as best we can to compensate and continue to produce the highest possible quality wines. This extreme cold (as low as -30) in the valley followed the previous year’s cold snap, where vines had already been significantly damaged. Bud dissection in and around our area of the valley indicate significant primary and secondary bud damage: probably in the range of 60-100% bud loss depending on varietal. We really won’t know for certain until early to mid May as the vines will declare themselves and show the results. We are hoping for the best (as farmers always do) but planning for the worst. At this time we are pruning our vineyards in such a way to allow close to 100% more buds than usual while we wait for spring bud break. Since our arrival in the valley in 2001 (initiating the planning, preparing, and planting our vineyards) we have had over 20 years of consistent vine health and production. This gives me hope that the future of our industry will be bright. Two bad years back-to-back is difficult to take and with climate change, the reality is that changes must be made from the ground up for long-term industry sustainability. Depending on what happens in our vineyards this season (and the vineyards of BC as a whole) will guide us in our future wine production.

Here are notes on current releases.

River Stone Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($23.90 for 230 cases; also 71 cases of 24x200 ml bottles). Fermented cool in stainless steel, this wine is in the refreshing, zesty style that recalls New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The wine has aromas and flavours of lemon and lime with a crisp, yet juicy, finish. 92.

River Stone Splash 2023 ($22.90 for 268 cases; also 79 cases of 24x200 ml bottles). This white wine is a blend of 37% Pinot Gris, 37% Gewürztraminer and 37% Viognier. It has aromas of citrus and pears. On the palate, there are flavours of peach, pear and pineapple. The finish is refreshing. 90.

River Stone Pinot Gris 2023 ($23.90 for 138 cases). This stainless steel fermented wine is crisp, with aromas and flavours of pear and apple wrapped around a spine of minerality. 91.

River Stone Cabernet Franc Rosé 2023 ($24.90 for 308 cases). This is the winery’s first 100% Cabernet Franc rosé. The grapes were allowed a cold soak of between 24 and 48 hours before being pressed and fermented in stainless steel. The dark rose petal hue of the wine is immediately appealing in the glass. With aromas and flavours of strawberry and watermelon and bright acidity, the wine is lively and refreshing on the palate. 91.

River Stone Sparkling White Merlot 2023 ($27.90 for 248 cases). Calling this wine white is a bit of a stretch when it is salmon pink in colour. That quibble aside, the wine is delicious. The grapes were pressed; the juice was separated from the skins. The juice, after clarification, was fermented cool and then aged on the fine lees for several months. After fining and filtering, the wine was carbonated and bottled. In the glass, the bubbles are active. The wine has aromas of strawberry and cherry, leading layers of fruit flavours on the palate. 91.

River Stone Cabernet Franc 2021 Boulder City Vineyard ($36.90 for 245 cases). The Boulder City Vineyard is just a quarter kilometer from the winery’s estate vineyard. The grapes, after a three to five-day cold soak, were fermented in a stainless steel tank. The wine was then transferred to French oak barrels (33% new) and aged for about 14 months. The wine begins with aromas of dark cherry and blackberry. On the palate, the fruit flavours are bright. The initial texture is lean but with decanting, rich, brambly flavours emerge. 91.

Poplar Grove launches its first Pinot Noir

Photo: Poplar Grove's Tony Holler

The debut Pinot Noir that will be released by Poplar Grove Winery in late June is long overdue from this 30-year-old Penticton winery which built its stellar reputation around Bordeaux reds, Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.

The Penticton winery has been run since 2008 by Summerland-born Tony Holler, his wife Barb and their four sons. Poplar Grove was founded initially by Ian Sutherland and produced its first vintage in 1996 from a Naramata Bench vineyard planted with Merlot and Cabernet Franc. That set the template for the varietal wines and blends the winery began to release. Tony Holler was a successful pharmaceutical entrepreneur when he moved from Vancouver back to the Okanagan, purchasing a lakefront property northeast of Penticton. A wine collector with a 5,000-bottle cellar, he was already a Poplar Grove customer. He retained Ian to look after the vineyard on the property he had bought and he jumped at the opportunity to buy the boutique Poplar Grove when it came onto the market.

“Because we did not know what we were doing, Barb and I decided to take a trip around the world and talk to wineries,” Tony admitted at a recent dinner where the Pinot Noir was launched. They were advised against keeping the winery at its boutique size. To be a sustainable business capable of handling hard knocks, it needed to produce 25,000 cases a year. Poplar Grove today has the capacity to produce much more and, consequently, the strength to deal with the vineyard devastation of the last two winters. At a time when a quarter of Okanagan’s wineries are for sale, Poplar Grove’s deep inventory of wines keeps it in business and supporting the ownership’s five families.

The impetus to add Pinot Noir to the Poplar Grove portfolio came from a New Zealand winemaker, Blair Walters of Felton Road Winery, a friend of the Hollers. He arranged to have Poplar Grove host a dinner seven years ago for Okanagan winemakers with experience in New Zealand. Blair expressed surprise that Poplar Grove was not making Pinot Noir.

“A lot of people assumed I did not like Pinot Noir,” Tony said. “But our winemaker, Stefan Arnason (left), had the attitude that we are making eight wines and we are doing a good job of it. Why would we risk making another wine and possibly not do as good a job. After some convincing, Stefan said, okay, if you find the right land, I am behind you.” In 2017, the Hollers purchased a 13-acre orchard at the south end of the Naramata with the right terroir for Pinot Noir. The Hudson Vineyard, as it is called, was planted in 2019 with six clones of Pinot Noir: 091 (or Pommard clone), 667, 777, 114, 115, and 828. The first harvest in 2021 was made entirely into rosé while the second harvest produced the debut Pinot Noir table wine. As well, there is also an 88-case reserve, Hudson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022, which may see a limited release in the future.

Having put his skepticism aside, Stefan, Poplar Grove’s cellarhand and winemaker since 2008, convinced the Hollers to put a dedicated Pinot Noir production facility in a 3,000-square-foot corner of the winery’s warehouse. He recognized that Pinot Noir grapes needed to be handled differently from the other red varietals. And the project was given to Dan Marshall (right), Poplar Grove’s assistant winemaker, who developed a singular focus on Pinot Noir. In short, the Hollers have done everything right for the Pinot Noir project by dedicating a vineyard, a separate production area and a winemaker to it. As the vines mature, the Pinot Noir will only get better. The 2022 wine has already won gold medals in three international competitions.

While the severe freeze last January devastated many Okanagan vineyards, the Hollers are seeing their 140-acres of vineyards come to life this spring. There may not be much fruit at harvest but the Hollers will not need to do much replanting. In fact, Tony believes that no vineyard on the Naramata Bench will need replanting because the Okanagan Lake moderated the freezing temperatures last winter. As well, the Oliver vineyards did not suffer as much damage as vineyards elsewhere in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. By a lucky chance, Osoyoos Lake did not freeze over as usual last winter because the fall and earlywinter had been unusually mild until the January freeze. While the lake is shallow, it may have moderated the freeze a bit. In addition to launching the Pinot Noir, Poplar Grove has also begun releasing library wines, starting with Legacy 2014. This is the winery’s flagship Bordeaux blend, first made in the 2004 vintage. “When Barb and I bought the Poplar Grove winery, it was very tiny and we had no wine to put into a library,” Tony said. “We only made hundred of cases of each. But as we grew, we kept remembering an experience [in a Bordeaux chateau] where someone could come to the winery and taste older vintages. So, in 2012, we decided to set aside two palettes of all our red wines and have a 10-year release program.”

Legacy 2014 is a blend of 44% Cabernet Franc, 24% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot. The Legacy is eminently collectible. The 2014 is quite fresh, with appealing aromas of cassis giving way to layers of dark fruits. Properly stored, the wine will still be drinking well at its 20th birthday. Expect the library wines to be released to Poplar Grove’s wine club. Here are notes on the Pinot Noirs.

Poplar Grove Pinot Noir 2022 ($34.70). This wine incorporates six clones: 091 (or Pommard), 114, 115, 667, 777 and 828. The wine, which was aged in French oak (25% new), is elegant with a silky texture and a long finish. It begins with aromas of cherry and spice, leading to flavours of raspberry, cherry and plum. The feminine delicacy of the wine is typical of fruit from a young vineyard. 92. Poplar Grove Hudson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 (Not released). This is a blend of two clones (777 and 828) from the best barrels. The aromas and flavours of dark cherry, plum and spice are more intense, showing the potential of the vineyard to produce a great Pinot Noir. 94.

Pentâge dips into earlier vintages for latest releases

Photo: Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie

Pentâge Winery in Penticton has a record of making interesting wines because the owners, Julie Rennie and Paul Gardner, grow 19 varietals in their 35 acres of vineyards. That includes some varietals rarely seen in the Okanagan, including Tempranillo, a major red in Spanish vineyards.

“Spain is the kingdom of Tempranillo, a kingdom that extended to 206,988 ha (511,478 acres) in 2008, making it the country’s most widely planted red wine variety,” according to Wine Grapes, the great 2012 reference by Jancis Robinson and colleagues. The book has an extensive three-and-a-half-page entry on the grape. It noted that it has come to be planted around the wine-growing world, even including Texas. “The variety’s abilities to withstand hot summers and cold winters is appreciated here.” That line gives me some hope that Pentâge’s Tempranillo (and the other 18 varietals) survived the devastating January freeze. “Currently, the status of our vineyards remains uncertain,” Julie wrote in response to a recent query I sent to her. “We’re eagerly awaiting May/June to observe bud burst. While we’ve noticed some varietals bleeding, signaling positive signs [of vine life], we’re still assessing - not sure of health of the buds.”

Fans of Pentâge wines, and Okanagan wine in general, will be holding their breath for a few more weeks. Meanwhile, Pentâge is among the producers with a strong inventory from recent vintages. The current four releases sent to me included three from the excellent 2018 vintage. Here are notes on the wines.

Pentâge Viognier 2018 ($26.09). Fermentation on this wine began in stainless steel, with three-quarters then moved to a second-fill French oak barrique. The oak portion completed partial malolactic fermentation naturally in barrel. The result is an exquisitely-balanced wine, with aromas of apricot, pineapple and vanilla. The palate echoes the aromas with the addition of citrus notes. 92.

Pentâge Gamay 2022 ($22.61). Half of this wine was aged 13 months in French oak puncheons (second and third fill) and half was aged in stainless steel. The wine has aromas and flavours of cherry, plum and spice, with a delightful hint of pepper on the mid-palate. 92.

Pentâge Hiatus 2018 ($23.48). This is a blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Petit Sirah, 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Zinfandel and 5% Merlot. Each varietal was aged separately for 18 months in new and used French and American oak before being blended. This is a brooding wine with aromas of dark berries. Layers of flavour open as the wine breathes (I tasted this over several days). There are notes of plum, dark cherry, black currant. 91.

Pentâge Tempranillo 2018 ($29.56). This wine was fermented in four different batches with three different yeasts. It was then aged 18 months: half in neutral American oak and half in French oak (one-third new). This delicious wine begins with aromas of cherry, plum and spice. The palate delivers flavours of black cherry and black currant mingled with notes of strawberry. The finish is long and elegant. 93.

Spearhead is about to release two new Pinot Noirs

Photo: Grant Stanley in barrel cellar (photo courtesy Spearhead Winery)

East Kelowna’s Spearhead Winery is about to release two Pinot Noirs from the excellent 2022 vintage. Unfortunately, both are in small volumes (less than 200 cases). Consumers will need to move fast to get them. Like most East Kelowna producers, Spearhead has been struggling with winter damage in recent vintages. Not much wine was produced from the 15-acre estate vineyard in the 2023 vintage. The jury is still out on how severe the vine damage was in January this year and whether many buds even survived the deep cold. Keep your fingers crossed. When he has grapes to work with, Grant Stanley, the winery’s general manager and winemaker, can make very good wines.

The two coming releases include the first releases from a new vineyard, Braided Hill. “The Braided Hill vineyard is our neighbour, across the road,” Grant says. “It is a five-acre vineyard that we helped establish over the last three years. This is the first time we have had the opportunity to taste the juice in the wine. I am really happy the way things are working out over there. Working with new vineyards is always exciting because it is a new terroir and a new clonal mix. We have a great opportunity going forward to have our neighbours all around us with excellent Pinot Noir to choose from.”

The other new release is a single clone – the Pommard Clone – from a Summerland vineyard that Spearhead has worked with for some time. “For many years we have had this clone in our Summerland vineyard and we have been blending it,” Grant says. “This is the first opportunity we have had to show that clone on its own. It is a distinctly Burgundian-style wine – an iron fist in a velvet glove. It has beautiful aromas and textures, and is quite delicious.” He adds: The winter damages in “2023 and 2024 has caused us to go looking for new growers and vineyard sites that are a little less susceptible to frost and winter kill. We have new vineyards coming from Naramata. The Blueberry Hill vineyard from Summerland is in barrel now.”

Here are notes on the wines.

Spearhead Braided Hill Pinot Noir 2022 ($39 for 147 cases). This East Kelowna vineyard was only planted in 2000 with two Dijon clones, 771 and 115. This is the first wine released from it. The quality for a young wine is astounding. The wine was aged 13 months in French oak (25% new). Ruby in the glass, the wine begins with aromas of cherry mingled with oak. On the palate there are flavours of plum, cherry and spice. The texture is lush and silky. 92.

Spearhead Pommard Clone Pinot Noir 2022 ($46 for 185 cases). The fruit is from a Summerland vineyard. The wine was fermented with indigenous yeast and was aged 13 months in French oak barrels (25% new). This is a bold wine that should be cellared to allow it to fully express its aromas and flavours of dark cherry mingled with forest floor. The winemaker rightly calls it an iron fist in a silk glove. 92.

Ruffino: historic Chianti producer at Vancouver International Wine Festival

Photo: Ruffino brand ambassador Beppe d'Andrea

It would be hard to think of a Tuscan winery more strongly identified with Chianti than Ruffino. No doubt, that is one reason why it was among the large contingent of Italian wineries at the recent Vancouver International Wine Festival. Ruffino was represented by its veteran brand ambassador, Beppe d’Andrea. There is an extensive portfolio of 14 Ruffino wines in the BC Liquor stores; and elsewhere in this market. I would bet there is not an Italian restaurant in B.C. without at least one Ruffino wine in the list; and likely more than one. That reflects how long Ruffino has been a major exporter to this and other North American markets with quality wines at sensible prices. Ruffino was the first producer to export Chianti to the United States.

The winery was founded in 1877 by brothers Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino. They soon established a reputation with gold medal winning Chianti wines. That resulted in Ruffino being named an official wine supplier to the Italian royal family. In turn, that led to the release in 1927 of what became its signature Chianti, branded as Riserva Ducale to acknowledge the patronage of the royal house. The winery was purchased in 1913 by the Folonari family. At the time, Ruffino probably was better known for Chiantis offered in traditional flasks wrapped in straw. I don’t know when that packaging was abandoned. I do remember buying it but I never used the empty flask as a candle holder. Many others did.

Beppe d’Andrea began his career at Ruffino in 1987 when the winery still was owned by the Folonaris. Beppe began working in the vineyards but soon moved to the cellars, first making white wines and then graduating to Chianti Classico and other red wines while also qualifying as a sommelier. His ability as a raconteur led to his appointment as Ruffino’s brand ambassador in 1995.

The Ruffino winery and its estates were acquired in 1999 by Constellation Brands, the big American wine and conglomerate. The Canadian market will recall that Constellation, on the way to becoming the world’s largest wine company, once also owned Vincor International and its brands here (Jackson-Triggs, Sumac Ridge, See Ya Later Ranch and others). In the last decade, Constellation’s Canadian wineries were repatriated by Alterra and are back under Canadian management.

Ruffino, however, remains under Constellation ownership. Beppe says that it is an arms-length relationship. “Constellation is the owner but we manage the company, not someone from Constellation,” he says. “The company is Italian. But it is important to be part of a big company. We talk to the other winemakers … how we can improve; what do they do in California or Oregon or New Zealand. We can share information on how to improve. This is why it is important to be part of a big brand.”

Chianti has changed profoundly since the days of the flasks in straw baskets. “A long time ago, Chianti Classico was always a blend, since 1700, when the regions was created,” Beppe says. “The rule then was that Chianti Classico was a blend of two red grapes, Sangiovese and Canaiolo, and two white grapes, Trebbiano and Malvasia. Then it changed again. In the 1990s, most of the producers including Ruffino, started to use some international varietals [Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot] in blends, giving the wines a different taste.” He continues: “Now, we are going back – not using white grapes but using indigenous red grapes. We are mostly using Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero, Colorino, Malvasia Nera. We would like to more identify the wine with the place where we make it. The taste has changed a lot in the last several years.” In addition to avoiding French varietals, Ruffino also has stopped aging most of its red wines in French oak barriques. The wines are now aged in large casks, mostly neutral Slovenian oak, another reason why the fruit in today’s Chianti wines is more vibrant.

Ruffino began converting its vineyard to organic practices in 2006 and expects to be fully certified organic by 2025. The winery has switched its eight estates to solar power. “All company cars are electric,” Beppe says. “And we are pushing the company to move as fast as possible to electric tractors. We have to do everything possible to improve the quality of the life, not just the quality of the wine.”

Here are notes on some of the wines that Ruffino has in this market, either from my tastings at the festival or from the BCLDB website.

Ruffino Aqua di Venus Pinot Grigio 2022 ($26.99). The grapes for this wine are from a Ruffino estate in Friuli. This is one of the best Pinot Grigio wines I have tasted: refreshing with notes of lime, peach and citrus. 91.

Ruffino Chianti ($14.99). This is the successor to Chianti in the straw-clad flask. BCLD describes it thus: “Floral notes of violet on the nose lead to fruity flavours of plum, sweet cherry and a lightly spicy finish. Medium-bodied, this red shows fresh fruit on the finish.”

Ruffino Il Ducale Toscano 2018 ($21.99). The BCLDB describes it thus: “Dark ruby in colour, this wine is made predominately of Sangiovese, with a touch of Merlot and Syrah. The flavour is rich with aromas of dark plum, black cherry, spice and notes of cassis and chocolate. On the palate, it is well-balanced with pleasant acidity, fruit intensity and round tannins.”

Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale 2017 ($27.99). The BCLD says this wine “opens to a lean raspberry or ruby color with bright aromas of tart cherry and wild plum. This is a recognized, well-traveled wine and a mini-ambassador for Chianti Classico around the world.”

Ruffino Modus 2020 ($34.99). This is a classic Super Tuscan wine: a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (aged in French oak), Merlot and Sangiovese. This is a big, bold wine, with lots of dark fruit flavours mingled with notes of oak. 92.

Ruffino Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2019: $52.99. Gran Selezione is a classification created in 2014 that sits at the top of the Chianti Classico range. The wines must be made entirely from estate-grown grapes, with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese and an extra six months aging in cask. Various wine critics have scored this wine between 91 and 94 points. I was impressed by the concentrated flavours of dark fruits. The BCLDB says: "This shows notes of dried cherries and red plums with cured meat, dried sage and tree bark undertones. Medium- to full-bodied with plenty of structure. Ripe and velvety tannins with a fluid and polished mid-palate. Flavourful and intense." 92.

Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Romitorio di Santedame 2015 ($70.99). The BCLD quotes a Wine Advocate review: "Showing a ripe and robust personality, the 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Romitorio is a wine of depth and dimension. The wine exhibits a polished and fine bouquet of aromas with wild cherry, red rose petal, spice and crushed rock at the front. It shows a dry, polished texture with plenty of fruit-driven endurance.”